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Thread: How To: Service your 2009 FLH Twin Cam 96

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Brownstown, MI
    Posts
    16,618

    Post How To: Service your 2009 FLH Twin Cam 96

    Well I have done a few of these and figured I would put in the time to do one on my new steed. So after a ride to warm the fluids, get the bike ready, steady and gather your tools.


    So I am a bit crazy with documentation, so I take pics for my service log. I will incorperate those here. To show you how crazy I am, I exported the log paperwork I made up in printmaster so I can show you all.


    For this service I'm doing the 2500 mile service a bit late but its still over kill per HD requirements. Further, I will go more in depth and change more oils than required but I think its insurance and a strong believer that "Oil is cheap, motors aren't!" This will not yet go into adjusting more in depth aspects like primary chain, etc.

    I even get pics such as an odometer


    On all my vechicles I reserve the Trip B for miles on oil.


    But enough of the paperwork side, lets get greasy!
    Pull your motor and and transmission dipsticks for air, take note of oil condition and levels.




    Remove primary derby cover. You may have to remove the passenger left floor board to access the 2 O'clock bolt on derby cover.


    Passenger floor boards are a 5/16" allen and the 5 bolts securing the derby cover are T27 Torx.
    Remove 5/8" hex motor oil plug. Located at the front left corner of oil pan.



    Remove 5/8" hex primary oil plug. Located at the the rear of the primary.


    Remove 5/8" hex trans oil plug. Located at the front right corner of the motor oil pan. You can't see it but its there. The trans oil passes thru the motor oil pan.


    As that is draining and you have access to the clutch pack. Further, especially if you have problems finding nuetral, a good clutch adjustment always helps.
    With a 1/2" & 9/16" open end hex wrench back off the jam nut on the clutch freeplay adjustment on the down tube.


    Inspect the 3 drain plugs magnets as its another eye into what is happening in there. Also, inspect and replace if needed the drain plug o-rings.

    At this time lube your clutch cable from here towards the trans and at the left bar lever towards the adjustment. Also lube the lever pivot point. Use a good cable lube.

    Now with a 7/32" allen and a 11/16" hex wrench or go-thru ratchet loosen the clutch rod jam nut.



    Now spin the rod in (clock wise) till it makes contact and then adjust back out the clutch rod a 1/2 - 1 turn (counter clock wise). Do this a few times noting the position of your allen wrench to ensure you get it right.
    At this point your shop area should look something like this.


    Lets continue...

    Tighten the clutch rod jam nut to 100" lbs or about 9' lbs. Be sure to not rotate the 7/32" allen in the clutch rod. This will adversely effect the clutch adjustment you just completed.

    Now go back to the clutch freeplay and adjust the lever freeplay to 1/16" - 1/8" freeplay at the lever. An old school trick is to make the lever hold a dime in the pinch point.

    Once you completed that, check the clutch operation while watching thru the open derby cover.

    By now your oils have all drained. Re-install your Trans and Primary drain plugs and torque to 18' lbs. Consider using some pipe dope for added sealant. It shouldn't be needed with the o-rings but again, added insurance.

    Lets button up a few pieces of this job.

    Pour in 38 oz or 1 qrt 6 oz of primary fluid. I'm still running HD Formula X.
    1 qrt


    6 oz


    Install a new derby cover gasket if no o-ring present on your cover. Install the T27 torx bolts to 100" lbs.

    Primary and clutch are wrapped up.

    Pour in 32oz or 1 qrt of trans fluid in the trans dipstick hole. (Right hole)


    Re-install the filler dipstick to 50" lbs

    Now with the trans wrapped up you should have some empties
    ^^My $0.02 not yours^^
    -Chris
    aka Gas Man

    "Why pay somebody else to fuck up your bike?"
    "Custom don't bolt on!"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Brownstown, MI
    Posts
    16,618

    Default

    Now as an added step of insurance I always run a http://www.roguechopper.com/"]Rogue's Oil Scavenger [/URL]on my motors. You would be surprised how much extra dirty oil is removed from the motors doing this step. For this FLH 96 CI Twin Cam you get 1.5 qrts of added dirty oil out of the motor.

    If you aren't completing this step just skip the * steps. If you do have a Oil Scavenger kit please continue thru every step.

    Remove your oil filter. If you have a K&P like me, inspect the magnetic pre-filter and screen meshing.


    Clean and set aside or simply grab a new one of your paper filters.
    * Spin on the scavenger oil filter bypass in place of the oil filter
    * Remove the 5/16" allen oil plug on the front of the oil pan next to the standard hex drain plug.


    * Install the oil scavenger suction adapter


    * Hook up the provided hose and run 1.5 qrts thru the scavenger adapter. You will see the dirty oil drain out the open drain plug. Doing so per the Scavenger's detailed instructions.
    * Once that is completed, remove the scavenger adapter in the oil pan, and the filter bypass. Re-install the 5/16" allen oil plug with pipe dope and torque to 18' lbs.
    Install your cleaned or new oil filter

    Re-install your motor 5/8" hex oil drain plug. Again, consider using some pipe dope for added sealant. It shouldn't be needed with the o-rings but again, added insurance.

    Again torquing it to 18' lbs.

    Pour in 3 - 3.5 qrts of engine oil


    That wraps up the motor's oil change.

    Inspect/Clean/Replace your air filter. For example on this stock unit remove the cover.


    Remove the 3 small bolts


    Carefully pulling the breather hoses from the back of the air filter. Then wiping clean the air cleaner assembly. You will probably find some oily residue from the breathers.


    Then blow out any debris from the air filter or replace if too dirty.


    Its onward to some of the smaller details of a good service. These are in no particular order but should all be completed.

    Lube Pivits thru out the bike. I like to use my dry cable lube.
    Inspect brakes operation, pads, rotors, and lines.
    Check the tires and tire pressure to specs or personal preference
    Inspect and check gap of spark plugs
    Inspect all the lighting and fuel lines.
    Check bolts on bike for tightness.

    Last but not least. By now the bike is cool so you can inspect the final drive belt deflection. This requires 10 PSI in rear air shocks and the bike on its side stand. This may require a belt deflection tool to complete properly with 10lbs of force. FLHX = 1/4" - 5/16" All other FLH models = 3/8" - 7/16"

    Start the bike, ensure positive oil pressure, once warmed up, test ride it on your street and check for proper clutch function. If done properly you should be able to find nuetral with ease. Park on level ground, let sit for a few mins. Re-check for any leaks. Double check proper oil engine and trans oil levels.

    By now you have been at it for a few hours at least. But you should feel confident that your steed is ready once again for the open road.
    ^^My $0.02 not yours^^
    -Chris
    aka Gas Man

    "Why pay somebody else to fuck up your bike?"
    "Custom don't bolt on!"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    South of Ann Arbor
    Posts
    2,320

    Default

    This'll be good. My bikes was just serviced, but I plan to do everything again @ 10,000 just to make sure. It has 9,000 now.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Brownstown, MI
    Posts
    16,618

    Default

    Yeah but this is only the oil service with some of the tune ups. Check your owners manual to see what else should be serviced at 10k. Generally those big ones require more things.
    ^^My $0.02 not yours^^
    -Chris
    aka Gas Man

    "Why pay somebody else to fuck up your bike?"
    "Custom don't bolt on!"

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