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Gas Man
10-04-2015, 09:24 PM
I want to do a motor build on my bike this winter.

~~Motor Build~~
107" kit (http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-28617-107-big-bore-kit.html) $1300 (woods cam & SE lifters?)
jugs (http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-28613-ic-cylinders.html) $700
head porting (http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-28619-cylinder-head-porting.html) $879

Manual Compression releases $100
TB porting $169
AIM Fuel Moto lock clutch (http://www.fuelmotousa.com/i-20859235-aim-fuel-moto-custom-variable-pressure-clutch.html#!year%3D2009%7C%7Cmake%3DHARLEY-DAVIDSON%7C%7Cmodel%3DTOURING%20ELECTRA%20GLIDE%20 ULTRA%20CLASSIC%20FLHTCU) $240
=$3,400

http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-28617-107-big-bore-kit.html


Decorative:
PM DRIVE (http://www.performancemachine.com/motorcycle-accessories/drive-cover-line/rocker-box-covers.aspx) contrast cut rocker boxes $500
RSD Clarity Cam Cover (http://www.rolandsands.com/product/55/clarity-cam-cover/contrast-cut) $400
==$4,300


cam chain tensioner shoes - zippers (http://www.zippersperformance.com/all-products/engine-transmission/cam-chest-valve-train/red-shift-dual-piston-tensioners.html) $125

Jagg Fan assisted oil cooler low mount (http://www.fuelmotousa.com/i-20640885-jagg-oil-coolers-oil-cooler-kit-10r-lowmnt.html#!year%3D2009%7C%7Cmake%3DHARLEY-DAVIDSON%7C%7Cmodel%3DTOURING%20ELECTRA%20GLIDE%20 ULTRA%20CLASSIC%20FLHTCU) - $420

Front engine stabilizer
Ness Deep Cut #03-661 (http://www.arlenness.com/prodcat/03-661.asp)$99

Fuel Moto Race Wires (http://www.fuelmotousa.com/series-194221-fuel-moto-racewire-spark-plug-wire.html#!year%3D2009%7C%7Cmake%3DHARLEY-DAVIDSON%7C%7Cmodel%3DTOURING%20ELECTRA%20GLIDE%20 ULTRA%20CLASSIC%20FLHTCU) $40


***Things I need more research on***

$10 Pushrod tube clip tool
SE push rod tubes ~$100

High output stator
Shifter shaft seal
Inner primary seals


>>>ORDERED<<<
Baker compensator #153608 (http://bakerdrivetrain.com/Compensator-sprocket-kit)
$359.10+tax=$380.65+$11shipping=$392

The bike already has the Baker Attitude manual primary chain adjustor and the Baker Bully Outer primary cover.

Ultra AL
10-04-2015, 09:29 PM
You hate money more than Kosher does!

leebo
10-04-2015, 10:15 PM
How many miles on ur motor now?

Kosher
10-04-2015, 11:28 PM
The push rod tube clip tool is well worth it. I think you should consider S&S push rod tubes, if I'm not mistaken the upper part is taller and the lower part is shorter, which means you'd have more room to push the lower part up once the clip is off. This gives you more room to adjust the push rods. The FM push rods are Smith brothers push rods, the adjuster nuts are higher up, making them a bitch to adjust with stock or SE tubes.

Gas Man
10-05-2015, 08:02 AM
I think I must Al, but then again in this Dept I'm playing catchup with him.

Almost 35k. Nothing wrong with it besides like Tim Allen said MORE POWER

Ok kosher. Sounds good. Keep the tips coming.

Kosher
10-05-2015, 08:45 AM
Ok kosher. Sounds good. Keep the tips coming.

I'm not sure if the dimensions are any different from stock with the S&S or SE, I was told that after I was having a bitch of a time getting the lower part of the tubes up far enough to get two wrenches on the adjuster nuts, but it bears asking.

The paper clip/rubber band thing will not even come close to working. Fuel Moto includes this little stand that sits on the tappet cover and the bottom of the pushrod tube sits on it, but getting that thing in is a challenge with the stock tubes.

The pic below shows you how little room you have once the holder tool is in, you adjust the pushrods using the top two nuts. They are showing you the front (intake, I think) push rod, which of course is easier, but the rear ones dont give you a very good angle to get your wrenches in.

When you are assembling its MUCH easier because you do the rear ones first before the front ones go in. But if you have to adjust after the install (as I have learned), its much more complicated.

The 2nd pic is the holder tool they give you.


http://www.fuelmotousa.com/files/lp/harley/push_rods/FMpushrodtool2.jpg

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31LvV2DAavL._SY355_.jpg

Gas Man
10-05-2015, 11:25 PM
So they give you that holder?

Kosher
10-05-2015, 11:37 PM
So they give you that holder?

They do, but getting those pushrod tubes up high enough to get it in is a bitch

Gas Man
10-06-2015, 10:45 AM
Ok.


And I remember HD having a high output stator as an aftermarket part. But I'd be damned if I can find it now..

Bagger Dave
10-06-2015, 10:59 AM
Coolio! :rockwoot:Baller!!

Klimoman
10-07-2015, 07:41 PM
Gonna be sweet when it is done!

horrorbusiness
10-08-2015, 07:36 PM
I would look into cams with the compression release , I would not want people to know my bike has a hot motor. Have it look stock and whoop that ass.

Gas Man
10-08-2015, 08:48 PM
Well being a stock 96 not a 103. I don't have compression releases.. so I have to install them in the heads... no way around that...

Kosher
10-08-2015, 09:14 PM
Well being a stock 96 not a 103. I don't have compression releases.. so I have to install them in the heads... no way around that...

S&S makes "Easy Start" cams as an option, but I'm not sure how well they'd go with your build. Something to discuss with Fuel Moto.

http://www.sscycle.com/go-fast-showcase/motorcycle-engine-components/easy-start-cams/

Showing compression release buttons on your heads as a "tip-off" that you have a built motor is a bit of a stretch, its about convenience.

Gas Man
10-08-2015, 09:37 PM
Yeah I'm not sacrificing performance for the lack of compression releases... just isn't that important to me.

Larry64
10-09-2015, 07:34 AM
Big motor, big clutch, time for a Baker compensator.

http://bakerdrivetrain.com/Compensator-sprocket-kit

Kosher
10-09-2015, 08:23 AM
Big motor, big clutch, time for a Baker compensator.

http://bakerdrivetrain.com/Compensator-sprocket-kit

He's already ordered it.

Larry64
10-09-2015, 10:38 AM
He's already ordered it.

:dthumb:

Moesride
10-09-2015, 06:24 PM
I'm gonna learn a few things over the winter with this G. Very nice, looking forward to this.

Bagger Dave
10-09-2015, 10:26 PM
I'm gonna learn a few things over the winter with this G. Very nice, looking forward to this.
Yep yep! I'm anxious to see the end results also! :rockout:

Mudpuppy
10-12-2015, 05:12 PM
This time please fucking take pics

Gas Man
10-12-2015, 07:46 PM
:lmao:

horrorbusiness
12-01-2015, 09:10 AM
When's this project start ? I've been doing some looking into my big bore build. I see Woods makes gear drive cams and they are helical cut gears. Now I'm really thinking about them instead of a tensioner up grade.

Kosher
12-01-2015, 10:25 AM
When's this project start ? I've been doing some looking into my big bore build. I see Woods makes gear drive cams and they are helical cut gears. Now I'm really thinking about them instead of a tensioner up grade.


Gear cams can be hard on oil pumps, and they can by noisy. At a minimum you have to be sure your crank runout does not exceed .002

horrorbusiness
12-01-2015, 10:33 AM
Gear cams can be hard on oil pumps, and they can by noisy. At a minimum you have to be sure your crank runout does not exceed .002
the helical cut gears are quiet , think ring and pinion. No more tensioner shoes and free horse power

Gas Man
12-01-2015, 11:45 PM
I'm not planning on starting till after the beginning of the new year.

GaugeMods
12-09-2015, 02:45 AM
Your stock stator is good. No need to upgrade, big amps already. the only way to upgrade it would be to a 3 phase. All those bikes with dual and triple amps are running the stock stator.

I myself keep mine on a battery tender year around as soon as I get home I put it on, just starting the bike puts it behind and the stator has to catch the battery up.

As far as the motor goes my best advise is keep it around 117Hp you start going over that and things start to break and more upgrades to handle the additional Hp.

GaugeMods
12-09-2015, 05:43 PM
I'm going to be using Jim Robinson (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100009280059807) from Head Hoggers (http://www.headhoggers.com/) this winter to rework my 110 heads, bronze guides, over sized 2.170 intake and 1.70 exhaust valves, woods springs, titanium retainers, custom oversized CP pistons for my 117", hone cylinders to fit, Woods cams TW 686, he's porting my 58mm TB $2,200.00

were shooting to pull 250-260Hp outa my motor

The thing is, Fuel Moto, Drago's Bike Works, they farm their machine work out.

Kosher
12-09-2015, 06:08 PM
I'm going to be using Jim Robinson (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100009280059807) from Head Hoggers (http://www.headhoggers.com/) this winter to rework my 110 heads, bronze guides, over sized 2.170 intake and 1.70 exhaust valves, woods springs, titanium retainers, custom oversized CP pistons for my 117", hone cylinders to fit, Woods cams TW 686, he's porting my 58mm TB $2,200.00

were shooting to pull 250-260Hp outa my motor

The thing is, Fuel Moto, Drago's Bike Works, they farm their machine work out.

They do, sure, but I can speak for Fuel Moto - they are good kits, tested and tweaked hundreds of times. If you dont want to have all of your pieces parts flung all over, its great one stop shopping and very good results.

Here's mine with stock heads and true duals.

https://keithhu.smugmug.com/Motorcycle/2013-FLTRU/i-W4VddQM/0/L/10313729_10152007979136534_4038849363530520946_n%5 B1%5D-L.jpg

GaugeMods
12-09-2015, 06:42 PM
They do, sure, but I can speak for Fuel Moto - they are good kits, tested and tweaked hundreds of times. If you dont want to have all of your pieces parts flung all over, its great one stop shopping and very good results.

Here's mine with stock heads and true duals.

https://keithhu.smugmug.com/Motorcycle/2013-FLTRU/i-W4VddQM/0/L/10313729_10152007979136534_4038849363530520946_n%5 B1%5D-L.jpg

They're great for sure not trying to take anything from them and their customer support is by far the best I have ever seen. I myself would rather go to the source than deal with a middle man, that and I'm going places they haven't been yet.

And since ya want to whip out dyno sheets heres mine. Was your bike running on 1 cylinder?
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/12348150_531001517078264_8263307960009080402_n.jpg ?oh=69b5eac303ab49e8802ac003a26a03e6&oe=56E06C74

Kosher
12-09-2015, 08:48 PM
No, running on both, but not a blower. I'm very pleased with the result vs money invested, assertive, reliable power when I want it.

Kosher
12-09-2015, 08:51 PM
:)

https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t31.0-8/12362822_10153745388677999_7147218971891899650_o.j pg

Gas Man
12-09-2015, 10:44 PM
Your stock stator is good. No need to upgrade, big amps already. the only way to upgrade it would be to a 3 phase. All those bikes with dual and triple amps are running the stock stator.

I myself keep mine on a battery tender year around as soon as I get home I put it on, just starting the bike puts it behind and the stator has to catch the battery up.

As far as the motor goes my best advise is keep it around 117Hp you start going over that and things start to break and more upgrades to handle the additional Hp.

Thanks for that input. I had already sailed the boat on not doing another stator. But I appreciate the vote in that direction... it gives me confidence.

I also do that with battery tenders...

Oh and you two...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l311/cjclark69/Posting/Bump%20or%20Jacked/hijacklive.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/user/cjclark69/media/Posting/Bump%20or%20Jacked/hijacklive.jpg.html)