View Full Version : clutchs

04-08-2013, 11:51 AM
have a 2011 road king classisc it has 3,300 miles on it. i put on rienhart slip ons , vance and hines headers. put on a stage one air filter. never drove it had dealer pick it up and but 204 cams in it and install super tuner and dyno. dealer said clutch was slipping when dynoing it. had to replace. agrred to install se clutch. it has 85 hp and 101 torqe now. but when they were dynoing it again found out back piston rings were bad and had to replace them at there cost it was still under warrenty. i pickied it up felt great and parked it in garage. now looking at bill i see they put a stock cam and friction plate. just wondering if se cam is better or should i stick with the one i got. i really think they messed things up. gernaded the motor and clutch and i had to pay for clutch and even put in wrong one after that. i have a call in to the owner but havent heard a thing yet. this has been a nightmare.

04-08-2013, 11:55 AM
I would be very skeptical of clutch issues with just a stage 1 and SE 204 cams, something funky is going on here.

Bagger Dave
04-08-2013, 12:04 PM
I would be very skeptical of clutch issues with just a stage 1 and SE 204 cams, something funky is going on here.
What Kosher said!
yeah, and with only 3300 miles...that is just barely broken in!

04-08-2013, 12:10 PM
i know but called milwaki and thats a wear part and wont replace under warranty. but do you think its all right to put in the se clutch and have them change on there dime as i requested.

Gas Man
04-08-2013, 12:24 PM
First off :welcome:

An SE cam would almost always be better. But I'm with ya, something doesn't sound right. I don't see why the clutch would have burned up with those miles either. I'm willing to bet it wasn't adjusted properly, perhaps for a longer period of time even. If you don't set the ball/ramp assembly rod adjustment just so you could be pushing on the pressure plate, causing seperation in the clutch pack. Same goes for, if you adjust the freeplay for the lever too tight. Adjust the freeplay too loose and the bike may walk with the clutch lever pulled in, because you aren't giving enough seperation in the clutch pack plates.

Another thing that worries me about them saying the back piston got burnt up, tells me they were running it too hot/hard/long. The rear cylinder/piston is always going to get hotter because it doesn't get as much free flowing air to it. A good dyno guy will keep a infraread laser temp gun with him and keep an eye on the rear jug temp. I think they burned it up, either as I said by pushing it too hard, or by not having enough air movement on the bike in the dyno room.

04-08-2013, 12:26 PM
Of course the next question is - who did the work?

04-08-2013, 01:27 PM
wolverine harley davidson

Gas Man
04-08-2013, 07:20 PM
I can't say anything positive or negative about wolverine... I simply don't know.

But I gave my 30 mile from the bike assestment from my keyboard... take it for what you want. But please stick around and let us know what happens.

Did you have your meeting with the manager?

04-08-2013, 09:18 PM
yeah something does seem a little fishy. i know of a good place 20 minutes from there, between New Haven & Richmond, that does real good work and has a dyno. he knows his HD's and can reprogram the computer's. he fixed a buddy's bike that the dealer screwed up when they "hopped" it up LOL. seemed slower after the dealer got ahold of it and it was and it would foul out the plugs too LOL.

Ironhorse stables
Ironhorse Stables

Address34951 29 Mile Rd Lenox MI, 48050
Phone (586) 749-5211
facebook page

04-08-2013, 09:21 PM
oh and welcome to TWM

04-09-2013, 06:51 AM
thank you all for your help. got to the bottom of it. they decided that the se clutch wasnt really worth putting in so they just went ahead and put the stock one in. thats fine but the thing that bothers me why didnt they ask me or comfirm this. they came over yesterday to pick it up because cable to me is to tight on clutch. i grab it and can't get nothing from it. i have been told a eight of a inch this has nothing?

Gas Man
04-09-2013, 08:48 AM
That is nuts man... see my sig saying...

04-09-2013, 12:38 PM
Im thinking you need a qualified dealer to do you mods with good printout of parts and dyno run. Clutch! your stock clutch will hold till you get up to peak tork then could slip.Most qualified dealers will upgrade to the S/E spring when doing hp upgrade which you should of got. The S/E spring is hard to pull in (rated at 380#) if you cant handle the hard spring pull then go with the S/E 380# with the VPC CLUTCH http://www.aim-tamachi.com/home.php?cat=3 PRICE somewhere around 300 if you go with the upgrade from AIM. Dyno operator should of seen if rear cyclinder had air fuel problems,timing, and adjusted it correctly.Remember OEM dealers S/E tuners by EPA rules are lean air fuel ratio with peak tork line that drops fast.Most indys will flat line your curve(fun to ride) adjust your timing so your engine run somewhat cooler at slower speeds. Extended warrany saved your ass but I would look for an indy they have warrenty too. Most dyno operators check primary clutch adjustment before they do a pull if they dont do an adjustment you will be buying more parts.

Gas Man
04-09-2013, 01:49 PM
Lots of echoing of what I said...